Kokontozai Autumn/Winter ’15

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Marjan Pejoski was first thrown into the public eye back in 2001 when he produced Bjork’s iconic ‘swan dress’ for the Academy Awards. Fifteen years and an uncountable number of red carpet outfits later, Pejoski, armed with the same over-the-top maximalist style that he discovered so long ago, stands as powerful as ever — as the creative director of his thriving London-based label, KTZ.
By now, the KTZ formula has already been disseminated in the fashion world as public knowledge. Step one: begin with ethnographic references to some indigenous culture; step two: seamlessly adapt these traditional designs for an entirely distinct; step three: top it all off with a maximalist touch characteristic of KTZ. Despite this apparently fixed procedure, the routine is nevertheless far from repetitive. Pejoski’s powers as a designer come somehow from his ability to repeat the same process over and over again yet bring something new through each iteration.
This season, Pejoski takes a long look at the First Nations of the Arctic region. The focal (and loudest) pieces of this collection are without a doubt the Inuit-inspired faux fur items. The Native-inspired parka has since long become a staple common in any weatherproof wardrobe. For Fall/Winter 2015, however, Pejoski chooses to adopt not only the traditional Inuit silhouette but the tribal Inuit designs often left forgotten in his designs as well. It is perhaps this boldness and readiness to cross boundaries that draw consumers to the KTZ clique en masse. Pejoski on more than one occasion has said that KTZ is supposed to be an ethnographic journey. Following this perspective, Pejoski has already been described as a shaman who escorts the buyer through the mentioned spiritual adventure. Perhaps this is the reason the shaman is invoked so often in his clothes. Regardless of what Pejoski sees himself as, KTZ can, after this season, check off another culture off their growing list with another striking collection. The current KTZ collection is available at RSVP.