Rick Owens’ most recent mainline collection was an anxiety-driven masquerade of clothing that pooled and draped over the runway models. A plethora of pockets, huge hemlines, and a mix of skinny elongated and cropped jackets executed in shearling and thick textures. The inspiration for the collection came from Owens’ inner turmoil with adverse changes to the environment.
As always, DRKSHDW gives us a refined look into the mainline collection. The Fall/Winter 2016 offering sees the return of some classics, in the gimp hoodie, level crewneck, and Detroit jeans. The season’s staple piece is a padded bomber, complete with carrying strap. Owens’ newest iteration of Aircut pants speaks to the main collection, shying away from the ultra-skinny fit.
Check out the video above and photos below for a full look into the latest season. Rick Owens DRKSHDW FW ’16 collection is available in store and online at RSVP Gallery. For more info or to place an order email [email protected] or call (773) 770-666.
Haider Ackermann has been looming just outside of center stage for years. Like many before him, he started in womenswear before venturing into menswear and has since garnered respect from many of fashion’s heavyweights. Years after a five-month internship with Dior’s John Galliano, he was approached to succeed Galliano, after declining the proposed succession of Martin Margiela. In 2011, Karl Lagerfeld said he saw Ackermann as his ideal successor at Chanel. So why does he sit adjacent to other labels?
His signature draping, knotting, and gathering can be found in everything from his shoes to coats, giving his pieces a striking aesthetic. He utilizes expert tailoring and juxtaposes them with fluid, casual styling which has become increasingly popular with the world’s top fashion houses. His namesake label should be more of a household name. But many times, fashion is waves ahead of the masses.
Ackermann is also known for his utilization of gender neutral silhouettes, and until recent years, gender has been a black and white subject to the general consensus. As gender fluidity and identity come to the forefront of the public forum, it seems that popular culture is finally gaining ground on fashion. He holds true to his vices in his latest collection with beautiful tailoring and astute use of fabrics. His collection is dark, angsty, and angular and presents a final product worthy of rock stars.
“Flight. Youthful Dreams of imitation nature. Aerial dominance that gains territory and wins wars. The symbol of peace. The frantic escape from a geographic location with no particular destination save exit.” -OAMC
The brand is led by the former head designer of Supreme, Luke Meier, and former creative director of Carhartt Work in Progress, Arnaud Faeh. As their Fall/Winter 2016 collection intertwines the different connotations of flight; nature, military, and iconography, they pull inspiration and realize them within the clothes. Throughout the collection, you can see it in a literal sense, with graphics of birds, military jackets, and printed phrases like “Peacekeeper.” But the brand dives deeper. Different layering techniques found throughout mimic the structure of birds’ wings and feathers, as well as the utilization of real feathers in select pieces. Even the knit patterns are deliberately in the chevron shape, which birds utilize in flight.
Each collection the acronym, OAMC, stands for something different. This season it signifies Oscar Alpha Mike Charlie, which makes a nod towards the militaristic aspect of flight. But the mission statement for the newest season brings forth a haunting juxtaposition: Military advancement and development in flight have allowed fashion to utilizes some stylistic cues while having a darker side. Military flight has led to the death and destruction of millions of lives. In an attempt to combat that narrative, the brand has taken familiar characters and insignias used on warplanes and warheads and injected peace symbols into the designs.
OAMC is taking fashion deeper than clothes. There is meaning in each collection which people are meant to connect with beyond the feel of the fabric and the wearing of garments. It is a brand that stands for something; beyond the clothing, they also donate a portion of each season’s proceeds to a foundation. This season’s being “Destination Unknown” which helps protect “children on the move” You can learn more about the foundation here.
OAMC is available in store and online at RSVP Gallery. For more information or to place an order email [email protected] or call (773) 770-6666.770-6666.
For 13 years, CLOT has been a mainstay in streetwear culture. Beginning as a clothing in lifestyle goods store in Hong Kong in 2003, the brand quickly moved into the market of creating their own pieces to sell in their flagship store. Founders Edison Chen and Kevin Poon landed collaborations with Coca-Cola, Disney, and Scion, to name a few, which has allowed them to open nine “JUICE” stores. According to their mission statement, they aim to “promote creativity and inspire perspectives in hopes of bridging the gap between East and West.”
Their latest season stays true to the brands streetwear roots with a bevy of graphic tees and hoodies, with assistance from Sk8thing on select pieces. CLOT takes notes from the board game Monopoly, and flips the iconic “Go to Jail” graphic. Classic tees, hoodies, and an overlong flannel round out the season to create one of CLOT’s strongest yet. Check out the lookbook above for a full look into this season’s offerings.
CLOT is available in store and online at RSVP Gallery. For more information or to place an order email [email protected] or call (773) 770-6666
Alex Carapetian and Alonso Ester, of LA-based brand Longjourney, share a passion for vintage garments. The duo sifts through vintage shops and flea markets in Los Angeles to obtain materials for their collections. According to an interview with Complex, 99.9% of the pieces incorporate some or all vintage. Their aesthetic pulls inspiration from military garments and athletic gear — such that one of their staple pieces from the newest season incorporates an old Champion sweatshirt, combined with velour.
“A respect for tradition and progressive outlook.” Longjourney’s website references this as what they achieve when creating. Final touches set in place by hand, which advances the narrative each piece tells. When repurposing vintage clothing, each article has its story, and Longjourney aims to make each piece modern and give it “new” life. The final product is a reincarnation of contemporary clothing with definite nods to equal parts vintage, modernity, military, and athletics.
Our team took the latest offering from Longjourney and notes from their aesthetic for our interpretation to the brand’s unique appearance. Take a look at the gallery above for a full look into what just landed. Longjourney is available in store and online at RSVP Gallery. To place an order or for more information, email [email protected] or call (773) 770-6666
Tim Coppens name is becoming increasingly unavoidable by the day. He just unveiled his first collection as creative director for Under Armour’s new UAS line. Coppens is synonymous with blending skilled craftsmanship and expert tailoring with keen athletic references. In each of his collections, you can see a motif of modern cuts, clean lines, and skillful blending of colors. His previous stints designing for activewear brands such as Ralph Lauren RLX and Adidas high-end line have honed his prowess for clothes with utilitarian sophistication.
To add to the notoriety he has gained from his work with other brands, Coppens has is highly decorated. In the past four years alone, he has received numerous awards, including the Ecoo Domani Award for “Best New Menswear Designer,” the Fashion Group International “Rising Star of the Year” Award, and the CFDA Swarovski Award for Menswear, as well as a finalist for the LVMH Prize. In 2016, he has nominations for the CFDA “Menswear Designer of the Year” and the ANDAM Fashion Award.
In his latest season, he utilizes relaxed fitting pants, sweatshirts, and jackets, with modern cuts, to create a refined aesthetic. Mixed media and the use of silk-stitched graphics highlight the season, as Coppens continues to push his personal brand to new limits. Browse the gallery above for a full look at the newest season. Tim Coppens is available in store and online at RSVP Gallery. For more information or to place an order, email [email protected] or call (773) 770-6666.
Jun Takahashi does not stand for only making clothes. When he puts out a collection, he wants them to have a voice. In an interview with Business of Fashion, he said “Clothes have meaning. Otherwise, it’s just cocktail dresses and bags — and that’s not interesting.” For 26 years, Takahashi’s brand has stayed true to this modus operandi.
Undercover, which he started with a friend in 1990 while still in school at Bunka Fashion College, has been at the forefront of luxury streetwear before luxury streetwear even existed. Takahashi created a lane for brands like Mastermind, which came in ‘97, and even newer brands like Off-White. He wanted to make fashion more accessible, so his offerings have always been youthful to some degree. Profoundly influenced by punk culture, Takahashi told Business of Fashion that he was always interested in rebellion and he “decided to make clothes that are not merely beautiful; I wanted to interpret culture into fashion.”
If you go into his archived collections, you will see a balance of eclectic and graphics and expertly tailored pants, suits, and jackets. He is deliberate in doing so and has expressed this literally in his newest collection, which bears the title “Instant Calm.” Shoes and jackets with “Chaos” and “Balance” printed on them come alongside shirts and coats with Belgian artist Michael Borremans’ artwork on them. The juxtaposition occurs against tailored shirts, pants, suit jackets, and overcoats in muted tones.
Undercover is now available in store at RSVP Gallery. For more information or to place an order email [email protected] or call 773-770-6666.