Haider Ackermann has been looming just outside of center stage for years. Like many before him, he started in womenswear before venturing into menswear and has since garnered respect from many of fashion’s heavyweights. Years after a five-month internship with Dior’s John Galliano, he was approached to succeed Galliano, after declining the proposed succession of Martin Margiela. In 2011, Karl Lagerfeld said he saw Ackermann as his ideal successor at Chanel. So why does he sit adjacent to other labels?
His signature draping, knotting, and gathering can be found in everything from his shoes to coats, giving his pieces a striking aesthetic. He utilizes expert tailoring and juxtaposes them with fluid, casual styling which has become increasingly popular with the world’s top fashion houses. His namesake label should be more of a household name. But many times, fashion is waves ahead of the masses.
Ackermann is also known for his utilization of gender neutral silhouettes, and until recent years, gender has been a black and white subject to the general consensus. As gender fluidity and identity come to the forefront of the public forum, it seems that popular culture is finally gaining ground on fashion. He holds true to his vices in his latest collection with beautiful tailoring and astute use of fabrics. His collection is dark, angsty, and angular and presents a final product worthy of rock stars.