Haider Ackermann has been looming just outside of center stage for years. Like many before him, he started in womenswear before venturing into menswear and has since garnered respect from many of fashion’s heavyweights. Years after a five-month internship with Dior’s John Galliano, he was approached to succeed Galliano, after declining the proposed succession of Martin Margiela. In 2011, Karl Lagerfeld said he saw Ackermann as his ideal successor at Chanel. So why does he sit adjacent to other labels?
His signature draping, knotting, and gathering can be found in everything from his shoes to coats, giving his pieces a striking aesthetic. He utilizes expert tailoring and juxtaposes them with fluid, casual styling which has become increasingly popular with the world’s top fashion houses. His namesake label should be more of a household name. But many times, fashion is waves ahead of the masses.
Ackermann is also known for his utilization of gender neutral silhouettes, and until recent years, gender has been a black and white subject to the general consensus. As gender fluidity and identity come to the forefront of the public forum, it seems that popular culture is finally gaining ground on fashion. He holds true to his vices in his latest collection with beautiful tailoring and astute use of fabrics. His collection is dark, angsty, and angular and presents a final product worthy of rock stars.
“Flight. Youthful Dreams of imitation nature. Aerial dominance that gains territory and wins wars. The symbol of peace. The frantic escape from a geographic location with no particular destination save exit.” -OAMC
The brand is led by the former head designer of Supreme, Luke Meier, and former creative director of Carhartt Work in Progress, Arnaud Faeh. As their Fall/Winter 2016 collection intertwines the different connotations of flight; nature, military, and iconography, they pull inspiration and realize them within the clothes. Throughout the collection, you can see it in a literal sense, with graphics of birds, military jackets, and printed phrases like “Peacekeeper.” But the brand dives deeper. Different layering techniques found throughout mimic the structure of birds’ wings and feathers, as well as the utilization of real feathers in select pieces. Even the knit patterns are deliberately in the chevron shape, which birds utilize in flight.
Each collection the acronym, OAMC, stands for something different. This season it signifies Oscar Alpha Mike Charlie, which makes a nod towards the militaristic aspect of flight. But the mission statement for the newest season brings forth a haunting juxtaposition: Military advancement and development in flight have allowed fashion to utilizes some stylistic cues while having a darker side. Military flight has led to the death and destruction of millions of lives. In an attempt to combat that narrative, the brand has taken familiar characters and insignias used on warplanes and warheads and injected peace symbols into the designs.
OAMC is taking fashion deeper than clothes. There is meaning in each collection which people are meant to connect with beyond the feel of the fabric and the wearing of garments. It is a brand that stands for something; beyond the clothing, they also donate a portion of each season’s proceeds to a foundation. This season’s being “Destination Unknown” which helps protect “children on the move” You can learn more about the foundation here.
OAMC is available in store and online at RSVP Gallery. For more information or to place an order email [email protected] or call (773) 770-6666.770-6666.
Recent collaborations with Supreme and NikeLab, along with cosigns from artists and musicians have brought Stone Island to the forefront. Despite the label’s recent success and step into the scope of popular culture, Stone Island has been quietly crafting for 34 years and counting. Massimo Osti’s innovative sportswear brand has been perfecting every aspect of its garments, whether it be through fabrics, fibers, or the dye used to give the clothes their discernible appearance.
The brand stands upon two pillars: LAB and LIFE. According to their philosophy, LAB is the endless examination and exploration into the metamorphosis and enrichment of fibers and fabrics. This dedication to constant advancement has led the brand to the forefront of new production and dying techniques that have been previously unutilized in the clothing industry.
LIFE. “The lived experience, the identity, the perceived status of anyone who wears Stone Island.” Stone Island has deep roots in subculture, and the aesthetic emulates that of military uniforms and workwear. Each garment is a testament to their modus operandi, providing the utmost functionality to the wearer, without sacrificing the labels refined style.
Check out the photos above and the video above, as our team attempts to emulate LIFE, one of Stone Island’s “two souls.” The collection is available in store and online at RSVP Gallery. For questions or to place an order, email [email protected] or cal (773) 770-6666.
You’d think a restricted color palette would curve creativity, but with the drop of each collection STAMPD continues to prove the opposite. With the house codes covering color, the label shifts all of its attention to reimaging silhouettes (both the tried and true and the trendy). Shorts take on a coastal approach in neoprene, moto pants loosen up, and denim is distressed to perfection. Each piece in the collection has its standout details, all while being simple enough to mix and match into any wardrobe.
Photographed by Anthony Trevino
Modeled by Geron McKinley
Styled by Taylor Prokos
Look book for Lupe Fiasco’s Spring/Summer 2010 Collection entitled Basic Info. The collection expresses three ideals, Peace, History, and Anarchy, all of which are reflected in this video.