Military garment design has been influencing fashion at an increasing rate over the years. Classic renditions of flight suits, MA-1 Jackets, and bombers from early Raf Simons and Maison Margiela collections are some of the most sought after pieces to date. In the ever-evolving landscape of fashion, designers continue to push boundaries and offer up new renditions of classic military pieces.
Many are doing this in a literal sense, as brands are taking vintage military garments, repurposing, and rebranding them to be “new.” Others are only pulling inspiration from the silhouettes, and modernizing them with slim fits, prints, and different fabrics. Readymade has done a bit of both; they take old military canvas from duffel bags, tents, etc., and repurpose them into new flight jackets, bombers, overnight bags, and novelty items.
The inspiration is unsurprising, as the military plays a significant role in the contemporary era. OAMC realized this in their latest collection and decided to juxtapose the narrative of their collection with the violent history of the military. Replacing bombs with olive branches, a symbol of peace, and incorporating doves into their designs, they attempt to soften the harsh realities that come with militaristic endeavors.
We picked out our favorite military-inspired pieces in the shop to display in our latest feature. All of the items are available in store or online at RSVP Gallery. Check out the gallery above to see what we have in store. If you have any questions or want to place an order email [email protected] or call (773) 770-6666.
We sat down to talk with our own Lance Jackson, who is a buyer and store manager at RSVP Gallery. Jackson gives a look into some of his favorite pieces at the Gallery this season as well as some insight into how he decides what makes it into his personal wardrobe. Check out the photos above, the and interview below for the full scope of Lance’s favorite Fall/Winter 2016 items.
Question: We are always surrounded by new clothes, shoes, etc. all the time, you especially being someone on the buying end, how do you sift through all of it and decide what makes it into your closet? Lance: At this point in my life, I have most of my essentials down pact. Now I’m usually shopping for one of two reasons. Either to find a better more cohesive replacement for a piece I already own or to add a missing link to my wardrobe. But, unfortunately, I have a problem with finding something I like and wearing it into the ground until I find the next piece to obsess over. It doesn’t make for good shopping habits.
Question: Obviously, we all buy some hype pieces, pieces that have a short shelf life, what makes something timeless? Can you tell when you see it, and when you decide to make the purchase, or does that come later? Lance: I mean it all depends; Sometimes I see something, and I may choose to pass only to regret the decision later. Sometimes I buy pieces thinking I’ll wear them forever only to give them to my younger brother after a season. I try first to look at the style and silhouette. If it’s not dated and I know it’s a piece that can fit into my wardrobe on several levels (if I’m feeling sporty, if I want to dress it up a bit, or if I’m just running errands) then it usually makes the cut. Some examples are the Ready Made Jesse jacket and 3.1 Philip souvenir jacket. I know that neither of these jackets will go out of style. Even though souvenir jackets are very much in vogue right now, a good jacket is still a good jacket whether or not it’s the must-have piece of the season.
Question: A lot of the time you have to be able to buy “into the future” to a degree. How do you predict or get a sense of what is going to grab people’s attention?
Lance: For me, it’s not so much about catching people’s attention so much as it setting myself apart from everyone else. The main ways I like to separate myself are by buying pieces that are hard to find like this By Walid silk embroidered jacket I recently purchased. Or also by not being afraid to experiment with brands that may not be in at the moment. I remember doing some internet shopping fall of 2012 and coming across a brand by the name of Gosha Rubchinskiy. I had no idea what it was or the story behind it. What I did know was that I liked the design and knew nobody else in Chicago was wearing it, so I copped a hoodie. Fast forward four years, and it’s everywhere. Not saying I was the first person to wear Gosha. But having those older pieces can set you apart from the rest when nowadays the norm is for everyone to wear the same five brands. (Disclaimer: My girlfriend has yet to give me that Gosha hoodie back.)
Check out Lance’s picks below:
Just Don Shorts: I really like what Don did with these. It’s an actual Mitchell & Ness short, but he added some details: Metal on the strings, the zipper pockets in the back, and pockets on the side. It’s just really a quality basketball short. It’s really a luxury short, and it can fit into your wardrobe easily. I wore these pretty much all summer.
Readymade Jesse Jacket: I really like what this brand does. They re-use fabrics from US Military duffle bags, and they make something totally different and new. I like how every jacket is unique; it’s got its own patinas and different style. Insulation that you can take out if you want to, so it’s versatile. You can wear it in the fall, you can wear it in the winter, it’s just a really nice jacket to add to your wardrobe.
Off-White Moto Jacket: This season I really liked it because he [Virgil Abloh] did the actual sewn on stripes, rather than just having them painted. It gives it a little-added texture with the zip tags and the weathered leather. It’s really going to age well, and it’s really going to be a cool piece over the years, it’s timeless.
OAMC Logo Crewneck: I just like the brand a lot. I think this is simple, yet versatile. You can easily add this into a wardrobe. Navy blue and white, colors are neutral, and it just feels cool, and the shape is nice. I really like what they are doing now; they have a lot of cool stuff. And the brand actually stands for something. Every season they donate a portion of the proceeds to charity. I really believe that it’s clothing with a purpose. I definitely appreciate what they are bringing to fashion and streetwear.
Longjourney Champion Crewneck: Sort of like Readymade, they have this whole process of taking older things, and changing them and making it brand new. With this, they took a champion crewneck, some more fabrics, and made it into something totally new. Very cool, I like what they do; it’s just something different.
You can shop Lance’s picks in store and online at RSVP Gallery. For more information or to place an order email [email protected] or call (773) 770-6666.
In the second offering of our ‘Staff Picks’ series, RSVP Gallery’s Creative Director Zach Coffman gives us a unique insight into his favorite items around the shop. Coffman has been a member of the team since 2011 and has had his hand in a number of iconic designs and collaborations over the years. Check out his picks below.
Readymade Duffle: This is an ill new brand. I really dig their craftiness and use of premium materials. I especially like that some of their items even come with stuffed animals 🐸💩⛺️
Bape Belt: This is pure nostalgia from the golden age of Bape. I might have to do this with a Louis belt, or better yet the Swarovski jawn with a Gucci belt. I’ve got some hunting to do… 💎🐒🚿📝
Just Don Hat: Don makes the go-to snakeskin cap. The buck-fifty. You can’t go wrong, natural or dyed. I have an affinity for the Larry Legend green brim special since I’m from Indiana 🐍🏀🎮