Military garment design has been influencing fashion at an increasing rate over the years. Classic renditions of flight suits, MA-1 Jackets, and bombers from early Raf Simons and Maison Margiela collections are some of the most sought after pieces to date. In the ever-evolving landscape of fashion, designers continue to push boundaries and offer up new renditions of classic military pieces.
Many are doing this in a literal sense, as brands are taking vintage military garments, repurposing, and rebranding them to be “new.” Others are only pulling inspiration from the silhouettes, and modernizing them with slim fits, prints, and different fabrics. Readymade has done a bit of both; they take old military canvas from duffel bags, tents, etc., and repurpose them into new flight jackets, bombers, overnight bags, and novelty items.
The inspiration is unsurprising, as the military plays a significant role in the contemporary era. OAMC realized this in their latest collection and decided to juxtapose the narrative of their collection with the violent history of the military. Replacing bombs with olive branches, a symbol of peace, and incorporating doves into their designs, they attempt to soften the harsh realities that come with militaristic endeavors.
We picked out our favorite military-inspired pieces in the shop to display in our latest feature. All of the items are available in store or online at RSVP Gallery. Check out the gallery above to see what we have in store. If you have any questions or want to place an order email [email protected] or call (773) 770-6666.
We sat down to talk with our own Lance Jackson, who is a buyer and store manager at RSVP Gallery. Jackson gives a look into some of his favorite pieces at the Gallery this season as well as some insight into how he decides what makes it into his personal wardrobe. Check out the photos above, the and interview below for the full scope of Lance’s favorite Fall/Winter 2016 items.
Question: We are always surrounded by new clothes, shoes, etc. all the time, you especially being someone on the buying end, how do you sift through all of it and decide what makes it into your closet? Lance: At this point in my life, I have most of my essentials down pact. Now I’m usually shopping for one of two reasons. Either to find a better more cohesive replacement for a piece I already own or to add a missing link to my wardrobe. But, unfortunately, I have a problem with finding something I like and wearing it into the ground until I find the next piece to obsess over. It doesn’t make for good shopping habits.
Question: Obviously, we all buy some hype pieces, pieces that have a short shelf life, what makes something timeless? Can you tell when you see it, and when you decide to make the purchase, or does that come later? Lance: I mean it all depends; Sometimes I see something, and I may choose to pass only to regret the decision later. Sometimes I buy pieces thinking I’ll wear them forever only to give them to my younger brother after a season. I try first to look at the style and silhouette. If it’s not dated and I know it’s a piece that can fit into my wardrobe on several levels (if I’m feeling sporty, if I want to dress it up a bit, or if I’m just running errands) then it usually makes the cut. Some examples are the Ready Made Jesse jacket and 3.1 Philip souvenir jacket. I know that neither of these jackets will go out of style. Even though souvenir jackets are very much in vogue right now, a good jacket is still a good jacket whether or not it’s the must-have piece of the season.
Question: A lot of the time you have to be able to buy “into the future” to a degree. How do you predict or get a sense of what is going to grab people’s attention?
Lance: For me, it’s not so much about catching people’s attention so much as it setting myself apart from everyone else. The main ways I like to separate myself are by buying pieces that are hard to find like this By Walid silk embroidered jacket I recently purchased. Or also by not being afraid to experiment with brands that may not be in at the moment. I remember doing some internet shopping fall of 2012 and coming across a brand by the name of Gosha Rubchinskiy. I had no idea what it was or the story behind it. What I did know was that I liked the design and knew nobody else in Chicago was wearing it, so I copped a hoodie. Fast forward four years, and it’s everywhere. Not saying I was the first person to wear Gosha. But having those older pieces can set you apart from the rest when nowadays the norm is for everyone to wear the same five brands. (Disclaimer: My girlfriend has yet to give me that Gosha hoodie back.)
Check out Lance’s picks below:
Just Don Shorts: I really like what Don did with these. It’s an actual Mitchell & Ness short, but he added some details: Metal on the strings, the zipper pockets in the back, and pockets on the side. It’s just really a quality basketball short. It’s really a luxury short, and it can fit into your wardrobe easily. I wore these pretty much all summer.
Readymade Jesse Jacket: I really like what this brand does. They re-use fabrics from US Military duffle bags, and they make something totally different and new. I like how every jacket is unique; it’s got its own patinas and different style. Insulation that you can take out if you want to, so it’s versatile. You can wear it in the fall, you can wear it in the winter, it’s just a really nice jacket to add to your wardrobe.
Off-White Moto Jacket: This season I really liked it because he [Virgil Abloh] did the actual sewn on stripes, rather than just having them painted. It gives it a little-added texture with the zip tags and the weathered leather. It’s really going to age well, and it’s really going to be a cool piece over the years, it’s timeless.
OAMC Logo Crewneck: I just like the brand a lot. I think this is simple, yet versatile. You can easily add this into a wardrobe. Navy blue and white, colors are neutral, and it just feels cool, and the shape is nice. I really like what they are doing now; they have a lot of cool stuff. And the brand actually stands for something. Every season they donate a portion of the proceeds to charity. I really believe that it’s clothing with a purpose. I definitely appreciate what they are bringing to fashion and streetwear.
Longjourney Champion Crewneck: Sort of like Readymade, they have this whole process of taking older things, and changing them and making it brand new. With this, they took a champion crewneck, some more fabrics, and made it into something totally new. Very cool, I like what they do; it’s just something different.
You can shop Lance’s picks in store and online at RSVP Gallery. For more information or to place an order email [email protected] or call (773) 770-6666.
From the gritty inception of Pyrex Vision to his most recent collection, titled “You Cut Me Off,” Virgil Abloh has yet to pigeonhole himself. Each collection proves an audacious adventure into numerous themes, seemingly building upon one another. Abloh has said that he has yet to reach what he deems “good work.” He continues to push the envelope, introducing new styles, medias, and mediums, in an attempt to reach that summit.
This season continues with classic diagonal graphics strewn across shirts, jackets, and accessories. Abloh drives his stock upward, introducing expertly aged and distressed jackets and jeans, as well as drapey hoodies and pullovers. Check out the video above for a quick preview, and the photos below for a more detailed look into some of the key pieces from the season.
It’s festival season, which means Neon and Nonsense is going to be busy. We kicked off the season with a trip to one of Virgil Abloh’s Flat White happenings, right here in Chicago. His hometown came through and packed the house, draped in Off-White, to show love to the Chicago native. Just three days later, we linked with Schoolboy Q for his Blank Face Pitstop, check out the full recap of that here.
This past weekend provided a plethora of shows and began with a high-energy performance from Madeintyo, Famous Dex, and Ugly God. The energy carried into Pitchfork, which featured a strong cast including Blood Orange, whose newest album Freetown Sound has received outpouring love from fans. Anderson Paak, who made the cut on XXL’s freshman 15, came with insane charisma as the crowd matched him throughout the night. The final day proved legendary, as Jeremih brought out fellow Chicagoan Chance the Rapper for a brief stint. FKA Twigs closed the festival with a legendary performance that was a perfect blending of music and high-performance art. Check out the video above and the photos below for more gems and stay tuned for Neon and Nonsense to come.
If you got a chance to look at our last episode of Neon and Nonsense, you got a few quick looks into our recent visit to Paris. The RSVP Gallery team stayed busy with stops at a bevy of pop-ups, showrooms, and runway shows. Creative Director Zach Coffman traveled with the crew and captured some dope photos from the trip.
The crew, which consisted of Easy Otabor, Lance Jackson, and Coffman, was in attendance at the famed VLONE pop-up at collette Paris with Virgil Abloh and friends and got a chance to get a first look at Kanye’s Paris Pablo shop, skipping the line the wrapped around the block. Showroom stops included: Haider Ackerman, Gosha Rubchinskiy, Enfants Riches Déprimés, Off-White, and Clot. The team also got front row access to a slew of shows like Off-White and Clot’s unique street presentation.
Stay tuned for more rare footage and be on the lookout for new arrivals in store and online at RSVP Gallery.
For the latest episode, Neon and Nonsense headed to Paris Fashion Week to take a first look at the newest offerings from a bevy of designers. While in Paris, we got a chance to drop by Kanye West’s Pablo pop-up shop, stop in at the infamous VLONE pop-up at colette Paris, and party with Virgil and friends at one of his Flat White showcases. With visits to Gosha Rubchinskiy, Haider Ackermann, Off-White, Clot, Sacai, and more, this episode is packed from end-to-end with rare footage. Check out the video above for a full scope of the happenings in Paris and if you missed it, check out episode 11, where we partied with YesJulz & Playboi Carti, traveled to Pitti Uomo, and more.
Fresh off the plane from his runway show at Paris Fashion Week, Virgil Abloh linked with his cohort Heron Preston for another presentation of Flat White at the Brooklyn Museum. The two provided sounds in the glass entryway of the museum, where Tom Sachs’ Boombox Retrospective 1999-2016 exhibit has been on display since April. For the exhibition, Sachs utilizes plywood, foamcore, batteries, duct tape, wires, hot glue, and solder to create and pay homage to the boombox, one of street culture’s most beloved icons.
The gallery features 18 unique works, where Sachs takes everyday materials and manipulates them into different iterations of themed boomboxes. Each sculpture is functional and plays music to make the gallery a deeply engaging experience. Abloh and Preston immersed themselves directly in the center of the exhibit, essentially becoming a living embodiment of the installation. Abloh and Preston stood alongside some of Sachs’ most iconic works, including Toyan’s (2002), a massive 8’x12′ group of speakers inspired by Jamaican sound systems, and Presidential Vampire Booth (2002), which features a fully stocked bar and Presidential seal. Check out the gallery above for a recap of the event and stay tuned for more info on Virgil’s latest season.